NATURAL DYES

Study and Research

The core team has been working on natural dyes for the last few years. It focuses on natural dyes programmes at two different stages, viz. study and experiments, application to cotton, silk, sisal. fibre and hand made paper as well as wood etc. The Organisation concentrated on natural dyes documentation and natural dyes publications. Information of traditional dyeing method which is still existing in some of the villages were obtained. A survey conducted at the district reveals that more than 60% of the raw materials required for processing natural dyes could be obtained from the neighbouring areas. Also it was perceived that the Dye raw materials were used as herbal medicines by few villagers. Hence, a total of 10 different raw materials comprising different colours were found to be available in the local areas. Natural dyes demonstration and training was held for 6 persons at the project office for eight days. In the demonstration class, participants learned the method and technique of collecting raw materials for natural dyes with out harming the source (ecologically sound practice) and natural dyes with sisal fibre. It's an ongoing process. An experiment was conducted with stick lac. Experiment on natural dye with stick lac is the most ancient form of animal (insect) dyes. It is a product of a small insect that attaches themselves to the shoots of the host plant and suck the sap of the tree for their nourishment. These insects create the lac by forming a thick layer over the twigs, which is then collected, crushed and washed to get the solubilised dye in the form of its calcium salt. Lac dye is acidic, naturally in uneasy mixture of least five closely related anthraquinone structures known as laccaic acid.

The dye is generally present in its sodium, potassium salts that are completely soluble in cool water and the pure dye is sparingly soluble in boiling water. The dye is soluble in methyl alcohol ' amyl alcohol, acetic and formic acid. The aqueous solution of the dye is orange-red, whereas the alkaline solution is reddish-violet. Those dyes can be applied only at acidic pH and have non -affinity for cellulosics but adapt well on wool and silk. Those properties of lac dyes are similar to those of anthraquinone group of acid dyes. The dye is non toxic and suitable for human consumption. This study investigate the application of commercial natural dyes of cotton and silk effect of natural and chemical mordents on shades development, its wash fastness, light fastness and perspiration fastness.

Dyeing process
Lac 50 gms
Water 21
Alum 10%
Cream of tartar 1%
Temperature 70-80C
Time 50-60 minutes

Mordant broth was prepared by dissolving the mordant in warm water. The temperature was raised to 40 degrees and the fabric centered. The temperature was further raised to 80 degrees and the fabric rinsed for 50 - 60 minutes. At this temperature, using exhaustion technique the fabric was than rinsed in cool water and dried in shades. The concentration of mordants was alum and cream of tartar.

Training On Natural Dyes

Village	- Jholiaguda
Block	- Semiliguda
No. of trainees	- 8 women
Period	- 10 days

In the village, except rope making from sisal fibre the inhabitants were ignorant of any other designs. Teaching them the numerous methods of designing and combination of different colours with natural dyes and handicraft materials will extensively help in generating additional income for the village folks. For such purposes assistance have been provided to the communities.
All those persons undergoing training belongs to Dalit community who were categorised under the below poverty line. Natural dyes training was taken up in the month of May. Production and merchandising of finished goods had already make inroads in the local market.

Transfer of Natural Dyes Technology with Sisal Fiber Unit at Jholiaguda Village

Under this programme, the group was selected from different villages under Koraput and Malkengiri Districts. They were the main supplier of raw materials. Besides their agricultural activities they have no other source of income. Since most of them were already acquainted with the skills of making traditional ropes by using sisal fibre as raw materials, the application of natural dyes and the other unknown values are rather easy to explain to the community.

Such technique will help not only in making ropes but also help in understanding the art of applying various colours from their own resources.

Silk Weaving With Natural Dyes At The Office Campus

In order to find out the pace whether people prefer chemical dyes over natural dyes or vice versa an attempt was made to locate the numbers of traditional weaving centres thriving in the region. During such survey it has been noticed that most of the traditional weavers were using chemical dyes. Few of them shown keen interest in using natural dyes if they were provided the essential skills and raw materials. As of now, based on their request, training on natural dyes is in the forefront. Training will be conducted in the near future. At the project weaving centre most of the experimented dyes have been inculcated with the silk weaving unit. In this unit, training-cum-production of natural dyes was conducted for few days. In the course of time any new method or technique acquired from the research centre will be subsequently transferred to different operational zone of the project.

New Experiment with Natural Dyes on Wood

In the last few years, the core team experimented natural dyes on different materials i.e. silk, cotton, sisal fibre, wool, hand made papers etc. In contemporary situation, as the need to focus on new horizon sprang up, the team surreptitiously transcend the norms by experimenting natural dyes on wood for the first time in its history. Initially, it under took survey in areas where local traditional carpenters thrive and practice their crafts. Till to date the establishment acquainted carpentry training to some villagers including women. After they completed the training the group will be provided with the imperative materials and equipment in order to chalk out a living on their own. Also, they will be the first groups to avail such facilities. Hitherto, they have master the art of making windows, chairs, door frames, table, stools etc.